WHY MULCH: The benefits of mulching

If one was to take a hike out into nature, be it in a forest, a meadow, even the desert, you would observe that there are very few areas that the soil is bare. You will find that the soil has been covered either by the natural detritus of biological activity (fallen leaves, twigs, spent blossoms, animal droppings, organic material moved around by rain, etc.) or that the ground grows plants to cover the soil. “Nature abhors a naked surface and will cloth itself.” This is a natural rule.

For the healthiest and most sustainable garden, one should mimic nature as much as possible in your daily gardening activities. Jackson Landscape from the beginning has been an avid user of mulch for our clients’ landscapes. Generally, we’ve been using a horse manure/bedding mix that has aged considerably (fresh manure is detrimental to the health of plants and the soil and just plain Stinks!) and has an attractive chocolate color appearance that enhances the overall ‘look’ of a landscape. At times, per request, we will use other types of mulch such as chipped tree trimmings, straw, or whatever the client so wishes.

Why mulch? Well, there are so many benefits to the landscape from the laying down of a 3-4” organic mulch on the soil’s surface. These benefits (and this list isn’t a complete one) are:

• Mulches prevent loss of water from the soil by evaporation.

• Mulches reduce the growth of weeds, when the mulch material itself is weed-free and applied deeply enough to prevent weed germination or to smother existing weeds. Weeding is one of the most time-consuming (thus, costly) activities of landscape maintenance.

• Mulches keep the soil cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter, thus maintaining a more even soil temperature. The microbial life of healthy, active soil doesn’t like extreme soil temperature fluctuations.

• Mulches prevent soil splashing, which not only stops erosion but keeps soil-borne diseases from splashing up onto the plants.

• Organic mulches can improve the soil structure. As the mulch decays, the material becomes topsoil. Decaying mulch also adds nutrients to the soil. Earthworms, the single most important soil organism thrive under mulch.

• Mulches prevent crusting of the soil surface, thus improving the absorption and movement of water into the soil.

• Mulches prevent the trunks of trees and shrubs from damage by lawn equipment. That is, the mulch acts as guide post to keep equipment at a safe distance from the trees and shrubs.

• Mulches help prevent soil compaction.

• Mulches can add to the beauty of the landscape by providing a cover of uniform color and interesting texture to the surface.

• Mulched plants have more roots than plants that are not mulched, because mulched plants will produce additional roots in the mulch that surrounds them. More roots, more vigor for the plant.
• Mulching can also reduce pest habitats on top of the ground if the mulch is of a fine / small size.

Recently, Jackson Landscape has improved the quality of our mulch by renting an acre of area to stockpile horse manure mulch, thus maintaining control over the aging process and correct moisture levels of the mulch, having a tractor for both loading purposes and turning of the mulch windrows for faster and more uniform decomposing of the mulch to a penultimate stable state. Our mulch has a superior quality compared to others!

I have been in this industry since 1987. If one were to ask me what I felt like was the single most important thing I could do for their garden, unhesitatingly I’d reply: “MULCH!”

Fungi, Humans and Health

As winter progresses fungi appear in our gardens, some detrimental to garden plants and some negatively effecting human health A garden maintenance strategy for winter that considers fungal problems will keep your garden healthy as well as yourself!
Fungi spread through spores, in water or air. These fungal spores sometimes saturate the air more than pollen from plants and are a major allergen for humans. The spores establish themselves best in moist conditions when temperatures are high.
Molds are the main fungi culprits that cause human health issues. Many molds cause allergic reactions and asthma in their human inhaler yet it is usually only when molds release massive quantities of spores that human beings react negatively. Although molds release billions of spores everyday and night, only a couple of dozen molds actually cause allergens. Molds can cause allergic rhinitis which is the inflammation of the nasal membranes. Your symptoms might include: nasal itching, nasal congestion or sneezing.
The main molds that cause allergens are dispersed by dry, windy weather. In many areas molds reach their peak of distribution in summer and are less of a problem in winter. The exceptions to this exist in climate zones where a temperate climate or warm one persists throughout the year. Where low temperatures arise in winter, molds usually become dormant until warm weather brings them life again.
Molds multiply in shady areas, on dead organic material, in compost piles, within soil, and anywhere they can find oxygen and moisture. Lawns and other grasses in gardens can be havens for molds. If we keep our garden maintained correctly, small mold population cannot adversely affect us.
To prevent molds from overtaking your garden you can;
1) Remove dead leaves from plants and ground
2) Maintain good air circulation in garden to prevent excessive moisture problems
3) Space plants far enough apart
4) Water plants in morning so garden dries out by evening
5) Mow lawn routinely and do not over water
6) Remove dead plants from freeze as these becomes mold hosts in spring
As we keep up the fight to repress mold populations we cannot forget Penicillin notatum, a mold that gave us the antibiotic penicillin. The one and same antibiotic that has saved millions of human lives!

Ch-Ch-Changes...

http://www.wunderground.com/US/CA/Santa_Cruz.html?MR=1


If you were wondering whether we were going to get any cold, winter weather this year, just take a look at the forecast for the coming weekend. While these sunny days are bringing us temperatures that are due to climb into the mid 70's by Thursday, it looks like there will be a sharp drop by almost 20 degrees by Saturday. Then we're to expect low to mid 30's on Sunday with a chance of snow showers through Tuesday evening!?! This is all great if we're getting the precipitation that we so desperately need, but what does this mean for your garden?
Living in such a mild climate, we are allowed to plant many things that would be considered exotic to other parts of the country, and even to our neighboring counties in California. However, with such strange and erratic weather patterns we've seen in the last few years, it's likely that we'll experience sudden and drastic dips in temperature that could shock many of our prized plant specimens.

Normally, most of the freeze damage that occurs to our garden plants is the result of a persistence of freezing weather. Many of our garden plants can withstand a night of frost, or maybe even two in a row. But once you go beyond that, or the temperature doesn't rise much in the day compared to the night, plants will begin to take on a melted or "burned" look, as pictured to the left. Usually, temperatures gradually drop as we go into winter and we can kind of expect that the freeze may be coming, so that we may prepare accordingly. But sudden and drastic drops can be just as detrimental to plants as a prolonged freeze. What can you do to prevent your garden from incurring the weather's wrath?

1. Be prepared. Know which plants in your garden are frost hardy and which are sensitive.
2. Keep breathable cloth (ideally, frost blankets, row cloth, weed fabric, etc.) on hand and be active in covering sensitive plants when a frost is predicted the night before. But be very sure to remove the cloth from any plant during the daytime, so that there is no interruption in the sunlight or extra warmth it may receive. (Please note: WHEN COVERING PLANTS, USE POLES OR BAMBOO STAKES TO FORM A "TENT" OUT OF THE FABRIC. IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THE FABRIC DOES NOT TOUCH THE PLANT FOLIAGE, AS A FREEZE WILL COLLECT MOISTURE ON THE CLOTH AND FREEZE TO THE LEAVES THAT ARE IN CONTACT WITH IT.)
3. Mulch the soil around your plants. Naked soil experiences a much higher fluctuation in temperature than soil that a has a good 3-4" layer of mulch over it. Think of mulch like a blanket for your plants.
4. Don't let your plants dry out. Intuitively, you may not think to water your plants in winter...and under normal winter conditions, rain should be sufficient. But be aware of our current water shortages and give your garden a hand watering every once in a while for good measure.
5. Don't prune anything at this time of year. Pruning stimulates a growth response, but that new growth is always tender and even more susceptible to frost damage.
6. Xmas lights are abundant in yards this time of year--if you can afford the energy bills. Stringing some lights around some of your larger frost sensitive specimens can give them just enough heat to withstand the freeze.
7. There are polymer sprays on the market that can be directly applied to plants that provide a protective shield from excesses in cold, but an additional cloth covering with help to ensure survival.

What types of plants should be protected? Well, this question is complicated and depends on many factors such as plant type, its location in your garden, your garden's location and sun exposure, and a myriad of other factors working in concert to create your garden's unique microclimate. For starters, you can consult the Sunset Western Garden Book to determine your plants cold-hardiness. But as a very general rule, you should pay extra attention to any Citrus, tropicals like banana trees and gingers, new young plantings, Angel Trumpet trees, some succulents, and anything that has new growth from having been recently pruned.

For expert advice or any further help, contact Jackson Landscape or post a question on our other blog Q & A.

http://jacksonlandscapeqanda.blogspot.com/

Winter Dormant Spraying

Despite the unseasonably warm weather we've been experiencing in Santa Cruz county this Winter, one should not forget that we're deep into Fall and Winter is just around the corner. Taking a look around the garden, fruit trees, roses and other deciduous ornamentals are beginning to, slowly but surely, lose their leaves and go into their winter state of dormancy. What this means is it's time to think about spraying these plants with a Dormant Spray mixture to ensure their health and prolong their life.

What is a Dormant Spray mixture? It's a combination of a fungicide (Fixed copper or lime-sulfur) and an insecticide (Volck oil, or horticultural grade oil). These ingredients are all listed by CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers) as approved for use on organic farms. There are some concerns about long term ill-effects of using fixed copper as it builds up in the soil so I would recommend using lime-sulfur on all of your fruit trees, with the exception of on your apricots which can experience serious damage from sulfur.



What's the purpose and function of dormant spraying? When used in conjunction with one another, the copper or lime-sulfur and horticultural oil mixture help control a myriad of potential problems for your deciduous trees and shrubs. The horticultural oil kills overwintering insects, such as scale, mites, aphids and their eggs as well as acting as a "sticker-spreader", or adhesive, that allows the fungicide to better adhere to the plant. The copper or lime-sulfur part of the spray kills overwintering fungal organisms such as Anthracnose, Rust, black spot, brown rot, powdery mildew and the dread Peach Leaf Curl.

When should you spray? Ideally, three applications, spread 30 days apart should be performed to ensure the death of overwintering organisms. This year is tricky since it's still warm and the plants are confused and many still are holding onto their leaves (and, in many cases, fruit) so we may miss the first application which generally should happen in late November. I used to recommend 3 dates to remind people of when to spray: Thanksgiving, the December Holidays, and Super Bowl Sunday. If this warm weather continues to be a trend in the later months of the year, I may have to restructure these dates. But, it is usually safe to think of an application in the later parts of November, December and January. If you can only perform one application, the late January one is the most important because it is imperative you time this before flower and leaf bud break. It is also important to note that one should remove all leaf debris and any wood, generated from pruning, away from the trees and that this debris should not be incorporated into your compost unless you are sure it generates enough heat to kill any organisms that may be living within it.

It is also worth noting that it is important to spray your fruit trees but not always necessary to spray your dormant ornamental trees and shrubs. There's a reason for the old adage "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". If you haven't experience fungal or insect issues with these plants, there's really no need to spray. The less substances you can use to keep your garden in good health, the better.

With spraying comes a few things to be careful about. The dormant spray mixture can be applied with a hose end sprayer or a tank sprayer, depending on the situation and the size of the tree. Be care not to overspray neighboring plants, trees and lawns. This mixture is intended for dormant, deciduous plants and will burn the foliage off and possibly kill any evergreen plants it comes into contact with. Read and follow your products labels and warnings. Do not spray on rainy or windy days. If it rains within 24 hours of spraying, you will need to repeat application. Wear protective clothing, eye protection, gloves (rubber is best) and lung protection. If you can use a respirator, use it. Remember: The term "Organic" does not always equate with the word "Safe". These products can be serious skin, eye and lung irritants and it's important to be mindful of this at all stages of application.

If you have any questions or would like us to perform this service for you, please contact us and we will be happy to assist you.

Getting a jump on Bareroot season.

Every year, the solstices and equinoxes mark the changing of the seasons. But right around mid-January, like clockwork, many gardeners begin to buzz with anticipation as they look forward to a lesser known season - Bareroot Season.

In and around Santa Cruz, this season usually lasts from mid-January to early March and anyone visiting a local nursery cannot help but feel the excitement. What's this excitement about? Well, every year hundreds and hundreds of bareroot trees and vines appear and the nursery is transformed into a veritable forest of "sticks". These bareroot offerings are comprised of various deciduous, dormant flowering and fruiting trees, flowering and fruiting vines and other offerings such as hops, asparagus and rhubarb.

These plants are in a dormant state and are non-potted, hence the name bareroot. They are temporarily dug into a medium where they can reside before purchase by customers who then promptly give them permanent homes in the ground.

The benefits you can reap from this type of purchasing are many. A) Selection. Rarely do you see so many different varieties and so many individual specimens to choose from amongst them. Different trees speak to different needs and it's rare to be able to walk into a nursery and pick your special Braeburn apple tree out from a choice of 25 trees. B) Cost. Often buying bareroot can save you 50% the cost of buying a potted up tree and, in many cases, the bareroot specimen is more well developed and is in a state of better health. C) Less chance of transplant shock. Bareroot season is the ideal time to transplant trees. You can look at it like the tree is sleeping and, when it "wakes" in the Spring, it finds itself happily planted in your yard. D) It's fun!

Now is the time to begin thinking about and researching the best varieties of trees for your garden's climate. Many plants get snapped up quickly by special orders and customers who've put their names on a waiting list. Don't wait until March to think about picking up a specimen. By then, if any are left, they are heavily picked over and can be considered "the dogs" of the shipment and with fruit trees, a good start really does matter.

For more advice about fruit trees, how to properly plant your new purchase, or if you'd like us to select and plant a tree for you, just let us know. We'd love to talk to you.

Fall is Upon Us...

As the leaves begin to change shades and fall to the ground, and the temperatures dip from brisk to chilly, we become aware that Winter is just around the corner. But does this mean that gardening activities should come to a standstill?

We happen to live in one of the most mild climates around, which allows us to garden nearly year-round. In fact, this is believed by many to be one of the best times of year to plant in the Bay Area. While temperatures above ground are dipping and we have to put away those flip-flops for a couple of months, the temperature in the soil remains fairly constant. While you aren't seeing much new growth on plants above ground right now, there's a lot still going on in the soil. Setting plants in the ground now where it's still warm spurs their roots to grow and gain a foothold for Spring's explosive growth above ground. So planting now really gives your garden a head start for Spring and Early Summer maturation.

But planting now also requires some protection from the colder months still to come. Adding mulch to your planting, whether it is already established or just being installed, provides an added blanket that your plants will surely appreciate. Not only will they benefit from the protection from extremes in temperature, mulch also acts as a sponge to retain rainwater and prevent run-off erosion. And it's decorative.

But not all mulches are the same, nor do they serve the same purposes. To learn more, contact Jackson Landscape today.